For December, a month brimming with reasons to toast with something warm, the Healthy Spirits American Whiskey Club has made its return to Denver, Colorado. This month's exceptional store pick features not one, but two cask strength single barrels of Law’s Whiskey House Four Grain Straight Bourbon Whiskey. My introduction to Laws Whiskey House was nothing short of stellar, marked by a remarkable single barrel of their San Luis Valley Rye. The unique, grain-forward (distinct from being "grainy") flavor profile piqued my curiosity, leading me to delve into Laws' background as I savored their whiskey. I regard them in the same esteemed category as Leopold Bros in Colorado and St. George in the Bay Area's Alameda. Laws epitomizes a craft operation that emphasizes the influence of terroir in crafting flavor.

Terroir, a concept traditionally rooted in the wine industry, underscores the significance of regional characteristics—such as Bordeaux versus Beaujolais—in shaping the expected flavor profiles of grapes from one area compared to another. The American craft whiskey movement has spotlighted the role of terroir in educating whiskey aficionados. Unlike their counterparts with generations-long histories, American craft distilleries stand out through their specific locations and the terroir of the land where they distill their whiskeys.

Terroir encompasses the regional landscape and its climatic patterns, but its definition has expanded to include local culture, shaped by both the landscape and climate, alongside the whiskey maker's intentions. This collaboration of land, grain, weather, and intention collectively defines a terroir's flavor profile. For instance, between Laws Whiskey House, Stranahan’s (last month's pick), and Leopold Bros, one might discern characteristics unique to Denver, Colorado's terroir, akin to the nuanced differences within French wine regions.

A defining aspect of Laws Whiskey House is their selection of grains. Their mash bills exclusively use “heirloom” and “heritage” grains—challenging, low-yield, but highly flavorful grains that mass production typically avoids. These grains are cultivated exclusively for Laws by two Colorado family farms—the Cody Farm in San Luis Valley and the Ohnmacht Farm in the state’s flat eastern region—known for their harsh growing conditions. The native grains from these regions have developed a robust resilience and a distinct personality, reflected in the aromas and flavors they produce. Now, over a decade into their whiskey-making journey, Laws has masterfully corralled these bold flavors into whiskeys that are both wild and refined.

Their bourbon showcases an unusual all-heirloom four-grain mash bill, consisting of 60% Homestead corn, 20% Centennial wheat, 10% Secale rye, and 10% Henry Road malted barley. This combination delivers sweetness from the corn, creaminess from the wheat, spice from the rye, and a complex array of fruit, nut, malt, and chocolate notes from the malted barley, creating a richly layered drink.

With a single barrel unable to meet the demand of our growing whiskey club membership, we opted for two barrels, remarkably similar yet distinct in proof by a mere 1.4 degrees and both aged 9.5 years—a rarity among younger American craft distilleries. The oak barrels, air-seasoned for 18 months and charred to level 3, housed the whiskeys initially at 110 proof. The entire process, from start to finish, adheres to Kosher standards, a testament to the meticulous practices at Laws Whiskey House.

Given the limited yield from one barrel, securing two ensures a generous supply for our members. If one barrel's selection captivates you, or if you're keen on an immediate terroir-based comparison, consider acquiring a bottle from both barrels.

Let’s explore what each barrel has to offer:

BARREL #134: COLOR – Rusty russet orange with fiery highlights NOSE – Dry rye grass, soft malt, thick caramel, chocolate, reminiscent of rustic cream of wheat with a melting pad of butter PALATE – A simmering heat underlies syrupy caramel, chocolate, malt, rye spices, a hint of dark non-floral herbal tea, and a touch of pulpy orange peel FINISH – A burst of heat from the proof that mellows into caramel and malted chocolate OVERALL – A gently malted and herbal, chocolate bar lover’s bourbon

These nuances, while subtle, become apparent through careful tasting. While casual drinking might not reveal these intricacies, both barrels exhibit beautifully soft malt notes, devoid of the edginess often found in malted bourbons and ryes. The chocolate variations, from dense bar chocolate to creamy frostings and syrups, offer a comforting warmth. The herbal accents, both fresh and dry, evoke the sensation of sun-dried, freshly picked herbs. The warmth does introduce a slight bite, leaving a pleasantly numbing sensation.

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